Cocoban, Shibam & Thula
Maki overlooks the large cisterns in Cocoban, Yemen.
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I went to Shibam, Cocoban and Thula just before Christmas with Angelo, another SIAL student, and my good Yemeni friend Maki. These three towns are in a beautiful area of Yemen about an hour north and west of Sana’a. Cocoban is actually on a mountain above Shibam, and one can hike down a nice trail from one to the other. Thula is nearby and is the picturesque village people dream about visiting. Unfortunately tourists have discovered this little village, and now it is probably the only place in Yemen where you will be met with touts pushing you to buy from their shops. But it’s still a nice place to visit, and you can climb a nice trail above the city to see the surrounding countryside.
We spent the night at a well-known hotel called “Hamida” (I think?) in Shibam. The hotel must be well known because it seems like many people in Sana’a have heard of it. Glancing at the walls in the hotel, you’ll notice several pictures of the woman who started the hotel posing with Ali Abdullah Saleh, the president of Yemen. I guess in the days when Yemen truly had no tourism, the idea of starting a hotel in a small village had never been considered. This hotel was the first place I slept outside my room in Yemen, and it was interesting to sleep on mats on the floor, rather than in beds. There was also no hot water, but the hospitality was great with plenty of good food for all of us.
Shimmy Shimmy Coco Bop
After telling my Mother about this trip, she said she couldn’t put this song out of her mind since “Shibam, Cocoban” sounds so similar. Thought you might enjoy knowing that. Maybe you’re thinking the same thing.
I also need to clarify that there are at least TWO villages called “Shibam” in Yemen. This one is located close to Sana’a. The other is the famous, “Manhattan of the desert” in which the mud brick structures reach heights of 8 stories. That Shibam will be discussed in an upcoming post.




actually...
Hi Paul, we talked a bit on the SIAL forum. My friend and I were two of those tourists wandering around Thula, Kawkaban, and Shibam, back in October last year. You're right - I almost thought I was in a Marrakech souq when we walked through Thula, with touts and shopkeepers popping out and following us everywhere. Very different from the other towns we visited in Yemen.
We had lunch at the hotel Hamida and it was packed with an elderly German tour group, followed by an Italian tour group. We briefly met the woman who started the hotel - quite a character.
Actually, I'm not sure I know the song you're talking about but I had to laugh when I read this article. When my friend and I visited the area, both she and I, independently, started thinking of the same songs: for Shibam, it was the Ricky Martin song from a few years ago, "She Bangs" (so we kept singing, "Shi-BAM, Shi-BAM, oh baby when she moves...") And for Kawkaban, it was the Beach Boys' "Key Largo, Montego, baby why don't we go down to Kawkaban, we'll get there fast and then we'll take it slow, that's where we wanna go, way down to Kawkaban!" I don't know if it was the altitude or the salta in our bellies but we got absolutely silly and our guide didn't know what to do with us anymore. :)
Thanks for sharing your stories - they are great.
Becky
(humming)
Well, just when I thought I'd gotten over hearing that song in my head....